As health and wellness became the new luxury, in our post-pandemic world, 2021 saw a rise in the skinification of beauty. It was no longer enough to rely on primers and highlighters for a healthy glow; we wanted hardworking actives and hero ingredients to rejuvenate our skin at a more meaningful level. Retinol, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, ceramides, peptides, BHAs and AHAs; cult creams and serums were replaced by cult ingredients as people sought to broaden their skincare knowledge. But what does next year have in store for us?
Barbara Sturm
“I think more and more people understand the anti-inflammatory aspect of life and that inflammation triggers problems with our overall health and causes skin dysfunctions. This indicates that we’re moving away from certain trends like Retin-A or acid peels, in order to strengthen the skin as an organ, strengthen skin barrier function and our microbiome and instead, we’re transitioning to an anti-inflammatory skincare routine and lifestyle that’s better for our health and kinder to our skin.”
Dr Anna Puri, Skinora UK
“I expect that 2022 will see more people opting for simpler skincare routines and a minimalistic approach. After a few trials and errors, many of our clients are starting to realise that less is more when it comes to skincare and that using too many products doesn’t guarantee effective results; it can sometimes even do the opposite. Simply keeping your skin hydrated and protected can make a big difference.”
“At-home treatments are set to continue rising in popularity. We are seeing a rise in requests for face masks, overnight rejuvenating treatments, hydrating and chemical-peel-like masks. Some people aren’t satisfied with the mild results achieved with many over-the-counter products and they want something that will make a greater difference to their skin.”
“Sunscreen will remain in demand throughout 2022 as its vital use is now recognised, widely recommended and emphasised by doctors, aestheticians and beauticians as being one of the most important skin care requirements.”
“LED light masks are another trending treatment that will follow us into the new year; many clients are opting for serums, creams and treatments at home that would be on par with the treatments we offer at our clinic. These work best when applied before an LED light mask.”
Jasmina Vico
“I forecast for 2022 that there will be extra emphasis on the health of your skin with more people embracing the ‘inside outside’ approach to skincare. More education is needed for people to understand their own skin. People often buy the latest skincare products without considering their skin type or concerns, and what their skin actually needs. I live by the mantra less is more, and hope that people will start to strip back their routines to just the essentials; I’m also seeing more bespoke treatment plans to target individual needs.”
“An ingredient on my radar currently is Japanese indigo which has healing and anti-inflammatory properties and is especially good for skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea. I believe we will start to see this pop up more and more in skincare products.”
Debbie Thomas
“Following on from the 2021 trend, where we saw people pulling back from throwing so many actives and products in general at their skin due to lockdown experimentation which often meant sensitised and irritated faces, we will be seeing more targeted but kinder skin routines. Think balance and simplicity or treat and repair rather than all guns blazing. While we all love a quick win, it’s the long term slow and steady ‘skinvestment’ that works the best.”
“We will see more focus on barrier repair and supporting the skin’s microbiome; yes, we need to support and balance the skin’s bacteria, not strip it. So ceramides, and essential fatty acids will continue to be a go-to recommendation from skin professionals, as well as gentler cleansing, next-generation enzymes, which give a gentle but thorough exfoliation, and collagen-boosting amino acids.”
“We will hear more about ATP (skin cell energy), and specific products and treatments that boost ATP that don’t involve traditional trauma (e.g. controlled damage to trigger repair). This means no inflammation. A new generation of professional and home care products are able to activate cell energy, meaning skin rejuvenation without any damage. Watch out for cold lasers, the switch treatment by Circadia and skin bio-stimulators.”
“The new generation of super skin machines are also becoming more widely available. Firm favourites in top skin clinics are the lifting HIFU technology and the micro needling radio frequency treatments for skin texture, scarring and wrinkle reduction. Combine these with more established and proven lasers for pigmentation, veins and brightening and you have the ultimate rejuvenation option for those that want to age gracefully, healthier and visibly fresher but 100% you.”
Sarah Chapman
“Skin will continue to be the big focus, with many of us wearing less make-up and therefore becoming more aware of our skin’s condition. Over the last 18 months, people have also started to recognise that our skin is a barometer of internal health and general wellbeing – a radiant, clear complexion is a strong indication that the body is in a healthy state. An increased awareness of mental health issues and the stress and anxiety from lockdowns have also affected many people’s perspectives and I have noticed that people are looking after themselves in different ways, with self-care becoming an ever more important part of our regimes.”
“We are all becoming more aware of the importance of keeping the products we use – especially on our faces – clean and safe. I expect product hygiene to become a new area of concern for customers, with savvy skincare brands moving towards packaging that minimises the risk of contamination, like our airless Skinesis bottles and single-use micro-needling tips.”
“Whilst many of us couldn’t enjoy our usual facials, we looked for alternatives to deliver professional-standard results at home my Pro Hydro-Mist Steamer, Pro Pore Refiner and Meso-Melt Infusion System were in huge demand as my clients saw the benefits of incorporating clinical-standard technology into their regimes. In the future, I predict that the interest in at-home devices will only increase, with technology previously only seen in a clinical setting being adapted for personal use.”
“More than ever, clients coming to my Clinic are focused on their skin’s underlying health, and not just its superficial appearance. Perhaps it is unsurprising that given the focus on health of the last year, there is a new appetite for achieving strong, resilient, naturally glowing skin. I believe that this will continue to be a strong focus in 2022.”
“I have also noticed that beauty consumers have started turning towards science-driven skincare brands – the incredible medical advances of the last year have made us all more aware of the power of science. While once ‘high-tech’ skincare might have seemed daunting, now customers are more confident in understanding the results of clinical trials and delving into the science behind ingredients. I believe that in 2022 there will also be a new focus on experts and authority, as beauty customers seek out brands they can trust – transparency and honesty will be crucial.”
Ron Robinson, BeautyStat Cosmetics
“For 2022, consumers will continue to look for products that have ingredients that they believe will deliver results for their skin. Online searches for specific active ingredients will continue to rise as consumers are eager to learn more about these ingredients. Ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol and niacinamide will be heavily searched given they have been shown to deliver results. Furthermore, consumers will look for products that have testing to validate the claims they are making.”
“Consumers will also be looking for products that are eco-friendly. They will look for products that are recyclable and/or have refillable packaging and ingredients that are ethically sourced. Ultimately, consumers will be looking for products that give back to the environment rather than just take.”
“Consumers will continue to look for products that not only deliver results, but they will also be looking for products to protect them. Consumers are more and more aware that they need to protect themselves not only from UV damage, but from blue light, smoke, smog, pollution as well as germs, bacteria, and viruses. Hence, we will see consumers looking for more specialised sunscreens, blue light protection treatments, antioxidant serums as well as anti-microbial products.”
Joanne Evans, Skin-Matters
“Use less but the best. I think consumers have soaked up the rush of a skincare frenzy and realised that the more ingredients you apply, often the more harm you are doing to your skin, and you just aren’t getting the results expected. Clients want a concentrated routine, bespoke to the consumer with the best ingredients paired with their specific skin type and concerns.”
“Clients are no longer looking for quick-fix treatments; the future of facials are long-term bespoke programmes, the same way you think about a training programme for your body, it is the same concept for the skin, mind, and body. There is a demand for luxury care both inside and outside of the treatment room which includes post, and pre-care, specialist consultancy and at-home routine recommendations for long-term results.”
Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist
“The modern day consumer is well-educated and is looking for fast-acting products which will provide quick results. They are keen to look through marketing. The brands that will succeed are the ones who are open and transparent about their ingredient choices, can demonstrate benefit with consumer and clinical trials, as well as show a commitment to the environment and sustainability across all aspects of the supply chain.”
“Consumers are looking for a variety of methods to improve their skin via a combination of over the counter products, tailored prescription skincare and aesthetic treatments, alongside taking a preventative approach to their skin in health and disease. It’s going to be increasingly common for people to build a relationship with a consultant and cosmetic dermatologist who can offer mole checks to screen the skin for cancer, treat conditions such as rosacea or acne, offer therapies such as laser, as well as a guide on skincare choices. I’m seeing this a lot in the clinic already, so imagine this will continue next year too.”
Daniel Isaacs, Medik8
“It’s no secret that there’s so much choice when it comes to skincare, but really all you need to incorporate into your regime are three products: a good vitamin C, a broad-spectrum sunscreen and a hard-working vitamin A product. Of course, there are exceptions to this (for specific skin concerns, for example) but generally, the above three products will cover most skin concerns. I think consumers have reached ‘peak skincare’ and that in 2022 beauty cabinets start to shrink down to the hard-working essentials.”
“Vitamin A or ‘retinoids’ are renowned for their skin benefits. Most people by now have heard of one derivative of vitamin A, retinol, but there are now alternative, next-generation derivatives that perform better, have less irritation and have incredible side benefits, too. Take retinaldehyde for example. This is a more powerful vitamin A ingredient compared to traditional retinol. It works faster, performs better with less irritation, and has the additional benefit of being directly anti-bacterial making it great for those who might be blemish-prone too. Our Crystal Retinal utilises retinaldehyde and has seen massive growth in 2021. We expect this to continue into 2022 as people realise it’s better than retinol.”
Mr Naveen Cavale, consultant plastic and reconstructive surgeon
“Hospitals can be amongst some of the most wasteful places when it comes to landfill waste and rubbish that needs to be incinerated. It’s a problem that’s been widely recognised within the medical community for a while now and it’s about time we put our money where our mouth is. It’s for that reason why my new hospital in Battersea, REAL, is introducing a series of environmentally-friendly measures. We’re introducing strict protocols for recycling, but perhaps more interestingly, we’ll only be putting patients to sleep for operations via TIVA anaesthesia. Anaesthetic gases and drugs have a direct impact on the environment. With TIVA anaesthetic, no anaesthetic gas is used (unlike traditional techniques) which helps to reduce our carbon footprint.”
“The surge in interest in surgery for the face, following the ‘zoom boom’ during covid, shows no signs of slowing. I’ve performed more rhinoplasties in the last year than the previous three years combined. Another interesting increase in bookings has been for the deep plane facelift. This is a relatively new technique compared to the face lifts of old. It provides an incredibly natural and non-fake looking improvement and offers longevity when compared to traditional techniques. Marc Jacobs candidly talking about his facelift procedure was a pivotal moment in facelift discussion. I think more people will be open to this procedure in 2022. The first half of my year is already booking up with face lifts and I’m expecting a big surge next year.”
“I’ve found over the past year that patients are looking to do as few trips as possible for surgery. In the past, someone may have booked in for a tummy tuck and a breast augmentation at different points throughout the year, however, we’re seeing a rise in people booking in for multiple procedures at the same time. This could be due to cost-saving measures, or the fact that some people were lucky enough to save money during the pandemic, meaning they want to get everything on their ‘wish list’ done in one go. This is a good option from a surgeon’s point of view because it means one recovery time and we can often see how different procedures marry up on the operating table.
Dr AJ Sturnham, a GP specialising in dermatology and founder of Decree
“We are seeing the beauty industry offer greater diversity. Brands are continuing to use more ethnicity, gender and age-inclusive marketing. You will see more gender-neutral brands, like Decree, that break down the myths that skincare needs to be divided into different categories according to the age, sex and skin type of the consumer. There’s no need to pigeon-hole.”
“Focusing as much on what we put into our bodies at the same time as looking at what we put onto the skin directly. I have always been a big believer in this approach and my clinic brand philosophy is based around this holistic approach. Consumers today are much more aware of the links between gut health, hormone balance and wellbeing and the impact these have on skin health, As such, we’re seeing a growing trend for efficacy-backed beauty edibles and tandem products that work both internally and topically. Type 1 marine collagen supplements are also becoming a skin health essential. I recommend one to my patients, called Beauty Complex, supporting your skin by providing the building blocks it needs to repair and restore connective tissue.”
“Make-up routines will have a strong focus on the skincare steps done before the product application and the trends are moving to more of a minimal make-up look, lighter coverage and celebrating a healthy complexion.”
Dr Yannis Alexandrides M.D. F.A.C.S, 111Skin
“Much of 2022’s beauty newness will be driven by consumers’ demand for clinic-grade treatments available in the comfort of their own homes. Beauty technology is stepping up a gear to provide the ultimate level of convenience to the beauty-seeker.”
Fatma Shaheen, Skin Design
“2022 is the year of super cosmeceuticals – reparative and luxurious actives that do not irritate the skin. In 2021, clients wanted results, solutions, escape from home routines bombarded to us on social media. I have seen an increase in customers wanting to find solutions and move away from the overuse of injectables; they want their faces back as injectables are making them look older. A good skincare routine or treatment is not just about one overhyped active, it’s about the recipe within the formulation and the results it will deliver. Treatments are the same, the magic mix of technology and quality formulation. Radio frequency face treatments will become a big focus as will eye treatments and face cupping. Overall, expect a focus on skin quality, tone, texture and elevated non-invasive treatments.”